We've often thought about all the things that could possibly go wrong on a trip like ours. You could easily get eaten by a bear, burst your water bladder, get sick, taco your tire, break a bone....These are the things we never say aloud for fear of jinxing ourselves. For the last few weeks, I've thought to myself, "I can't believe how little has gone wrong." But of course I never voiced that to the others, because if I did, of course something would happen....
If you read our previous post from Abiquiu, you'll remember that we set off with no more spare tubes and very few patches. We rode away from the wonderful community of Abiquiu with anxiety filling our stomachs and repeating our mantra: "Do NOT get a flat!"...about 15 miles out of town I noticed my rear tire slightly deflated. I played the flat tire denial game, pumping up the tire, riding, pumping, riding, before finally flipping the bike upside down and using a precious patch to cover the hole made from a goathead thorn. On we continued, wondering if we could possibly make it to Grants and avoid the millions of thorns littering the roads. That afternoon, we arrived to the top of Polvedera Mesa, where we waited for Gen. He arrived to find us taking naps on top of the large boulders, and easily convinced us to set up camp for the evening. With many hours of daylight left, we threw ourselves into a backcountry craft project of sorts....how to build a free standing unicycle out of nothing but sticks, rocks and litter....scroll down to see the resulting piece of art! It's amazing what you can create when 3 crazy cyclists have some time to spare.
On we rode to Cuba, where we finally experienced the New Mexican cuisine we've dreamed about. At El Bruno's Cafe, we gorged on New Mexican Hot Tamales....spicy, delicious, and the great end to a rough day of terrain! Our shared hotel room that evening was a sight to see. Rarely on this trip have we had a full kitchen at our fingertips, so of course we took a full day off just to cook and eat. Taquito's, pizza, hashbrowns & eggs & sausage, kiwis, pasta, more tamales... and avocados of course. It's always a successful rest day when avocados are involved.
We left the grocery stores and pavement behind again, as we made the final stretch to Grants, where we would find bike tubes, patches and hopefully more avocados. The wind was very strong, but the terrain was absolutely stunning. Down into dry arroyos, over mesas, through oases and then back into the forest again. So far, no more flats, but, unfortunately, Gen joined the flat tire party. Now we all rode in silent worry, spare tubeless and itching for Grants to be on the horizon.
Somehow, by the grace of the powers that be, we all made it safely into Grants. We stocked up on goods at Wal-Mart, picked up our tubes, schlepped our stuff to Motel 6 and then made our tired way over to Denny's. I was astounded as I watched Josh and Gen down huge milkshakes, sodas and ginormous bacon and egg burgers. We were just about to settle up the bill when the couple across the aisle struck up a conversation with us. 30 minutes later, they surprise us with their generosity, insisting on paying for our dinner! Yet another wild wonder of the kind folks we've met. Thanks again Ken and Dianne!!
The next day was epic indeed, even with just the amount of miles needed to travel. It would be 88 miles to Pie Town, and the days were getting shorter. In order for Gen to make the distance, he would have to ride from sun-up to sun-down, with no mechanical problems and few breaks. It didn't help that if it rained, we would be going
nowhere- New Mexico roads turn to peanut butter when wet, impossible to ride through...and rain was in the forecast. We all awoke to our alarms at 4:30 am, and you could feel the nervousness in the room. Gen was out the door by 5, using his headlamp to leave town before the sun rose. As Josh and I were leaving to head over to breakfast, I noticed Gen's rain pants on the floor. I raced out the door, knowing that if it rained, he would be miserable without his rain gear. Never have I sprinted so fast on my bike, catching him 2 miles down the road (I received a text from him at breakfast that it had started raining just one hour later!). Josh and I set out after finally getting our packages from the post office, riding into what looked like guaranteed rain, but knowing that now we at least had extra tubes and food. 30 miles into the day, I curved around a bend to see a sight I hate: Josh's bike flipped upside down. We patched the tire, and hurried on. Just 10 miles later, we found Gen frustrated and tired. He had been dealing with a flat tire all day, putting a serious delay into his ride. We stuck around chatting, hoping to lift his spirits, and hoping we would all make it to Pie Town. Another 10 miles, and I see Josh, again, with his bike flipped over. This time we were seriously worried, as lighting was flashing from so many directions, we didn't know which way to flee to. With Josh's tube out, we really started to get worried. Every time we patched a hole, we found another! 6, 7, 8 holes in and no patches left. We raced towards the highway, hoping to get away from the thorns, the sharp lava, the lighting and most of all, the rain. Just a half mile short of the highway, Josh's tube deflated for the last time. In went the fresh and precious new tube, just bought that morning. We had wasted 2 hours of daylight, and Pie Town was still far away. Behind us we sent Gen happy thoughts, hoping that he was dry and warm. Up and down we rode, over hill after hill, and somehow our mileage didn't match up with our maps, and the road seemed to never end. The sun set, and we donned long sleeves and headlamps, only to find that my battery was dead. On we road through the dark, delirious and exhausted. Somehow, we arrived at the Toaster House in Pie Town, not really knowing what to expect, just hoping we would find warmth and shelter. And did we ever!
The Toaster House is a home dedicated to through travelers, mostly hikers and bikers. Any stranger is welcome, with access to a full pantry and fridge, showers, laundry, books, music, and most of all, beds. When we walked through the door, the very first thing we saw were our packages from Amanda and Jen- our saving graces! The second thing I saw made my neck hurt from double-taking; in the middle of the desert, in a little place called Pie Town where the only thing you can buy is pie, is a little house with a kitchen where there on the counter sat a full package of gluten free pasta. Never have I been so happy to see such a thing! It was a challenge to wait for the water to boil before falling asleep on my feet, but I enjoyed every bite of that lovely pasta (supplemented of course with an avocado)! We were so tired, I fell asleep laughing at Josh who was laying sideways on the bed across the room with his shoes still on....
I woke up to one of the best smells in all the world....freshly brewed, dear, sweet coffee. I blurrily made my way downstairs to find Josh and a fresh pot hanging out in the kitchen. I was disappointed to find that Gen had still not arrived- we were slow to pack up, hoping that he would arrive before we departed. And he did! And of course, he pulled a "Gen" on us, convincing us to take a rest day at the Toaster House, positive that the next day would be drier and warmer...all day it rained while we lounged around the house. They guys indulged in pie (of course), and we spent the afternoon on the porch counting the holes in our tubes (between the two of them, there must have been 13 punctures!). We went to bed early at 9, knowing that in order to beat the rain and somehow make it in time to Silver City, we would have to ride out early.
Up again at 4:30, we looked outside to more and more rain. We ate breakfast feeling angst and depressed, not knowing what to expect. For Gen, it wasn't a choice- with the rain on the roads it wouldn't be safe for him to ride. We sadly said our goodbyes, hoping to catch each other again before the final end. Just a few minutes into the day's ride, we should have pulled a U-ey and turned back. The roads were so slick we had to ride with caution and concentration. We realized that if the sun didn't break the clouds, we were in for some serious trouble. 10 miles in, we hit some thick mud, where I crashed, picking myself up,
covered in grey muck. We laughed, rode on, only to find that the conditions were worsening, and we stopped laughing. The mud became intensely sticky, building and building on the tires to the point where the tires were too fat to turn through the wheel wells. I tried to push my bike out of the mud, and realized with tears streaming down my face that not only could I not walk my bike, I couldn't pick it up, it was so heavy with mud and rocks. Knowing that Josh would be wondering where I was and considering turning around to find me, I spent the next 30 minutes wiping off the mud, walking 100 feet, wiping, walking, until I finally found him up the rode. The next 10 miles were a nightmare as we attempted to ride, crashed, wiped the mud off and repeated. Just as I had reached the top of the hill where the road was drying, I heard Josh's emergency whistle in the distance. I raced back down the hill, to find him walking his bike up and holding his broken chain and derailleur in his hand. It was turning out to be a no-good, awful, terrible bad day. As we settled in to fix the broken pieces, we were convinced the ride was over. Just as I had my phone out to call a friend in Silver City to come rescue us, the unfixable was fixed. But, we still couldn't ride on. As we had sat there, the mud on our bikes had turned to cement. The next 2 hours were spent chipping away at the hardened mud with our tent spokes until we could see our bikes again.
Finally, we were ready to continue on, praying that the mud was over. Our day's destination was 110 miles in, which we needed to make in order to find water. Miraculously, we were nearing our destination before losing the daylight, when of course we hit....more mud. We crashed multiple times before deciding to walk our bikes through the fields of grass. Somehow, we made it to our campsite just as the light disappeared. Never, ever have I been so exhausted- we rode 100 miles, with serious mechanical issues, only "resting" to clean the muck from our gears, not sitting down once to eat. We slept
well.
We woke early yet again, knowing that there was not wiggle room to rest. It was 85 miles to Silver City, over tough elevation, and we still had to clean our bikes again before setting off. The day looked like rain, and yet somehow, we rode through the eye of the storm, and we were graciously saved from dealing with anymore mud. Again, we rode all morning and night, not sitting down once to rest or eat, determined to make it to Silver City. With our late start into the day, though, it would have meant riding on narrow windy roads in the dark, and severely exhausted to boot. We decided that the push wasn't worth it, and it turned out to be the best decision of the day. We found ourselves at Lake Roberts General Store, where the store manager, Doug, is intent on taking in cyclists. It seemed like the 5-Star hotel of campsites- salmon burgers, hot tea, gatorade, showers and free camping. What a delight! We finally felt safe and warm, and fell asleep easily by 8pm.
This time, we woke up early not to beat some impending disaster, but to conquer the next 30 miles of hills to Silver City. The ride was absolutely beautiful, and the reward of Silver City phenomenal. Our friend, Patrick, met us on the highway and took us straight to Gila Hike & Bike, where the mechanics treated our bikes like royalty. Next, Patrick drove us straight to his house, where he had made spaghetti and meatballs in anticipation of our arrival. We greedily had seconds, and finished off with not one, but two of Patrick's specialty espressos. Next on his list of treats and spoils was coconut ice cream. And that was just lunch! Dinner was more pasta, veggies and salad, and of course, more ice cream. Showers, laundry, and our new Hike & Bike T-shirts on....it was like heaven compared to the last few days in the wilderness. I spent the evening laughing at Josh, who kept repeating how glad he was that something finally went wrong, because the trip was just
too smooth up until New Mexico. I suppose the tears and yelling at the mud somehow made us tougher....
Today was another "rest" day....more wonderful espressos and food to start the day off before ticking off our To-Do List. While driving us around town, Patrick took us to the local Farmer's Market, where we stocked up on fresh produce and pastries. Now we sit and plan for....the end?!
Tomorrow we make our last and final push of the Great Divide Route. For 3 months we've traveled through 6 states/provinces, covered almost 3,000 miles by pedaling just a few miles at a time. The Mexico border never really seemed like a destination, just a picture in our heads that drove us South. It would be impossible to communicate and portray the entirety of what has been our journey in just this blog post. So many challenges, so many people to remember. So many hundreds of hours spent gazing at the scenery while thinking about.....everything. I am sure we've changed, probably in ways we don't know, and yet one that we most certainly do: we've found peace and serenity not just in the great outdoors, but in the methodical push we have to make each day through countless challenges, and that sweet feeling at end of the day when we finally made it. Tomorrow we'll repeat the same routine, but this time we'll end the day looking at our odometers, realizing for the first time that we just rode over 3,000 miles, a feat we will spend many months pondering. And the best news? We still aren't done yet! For the first time in 3 months, we'll turn our bikes North, and ride a few hundred more miles, where we will finally end in Tucson, Arizona. Somehow, tomorrow's ride South seems so much more doable, knowing that the journey isn't
quite over yet....
The ensuing pictures are completely out of order. One of the many non-cycling challenges of this adventure is battling technology and time....Some day when I get home I'll put them in order! For now, enjoy the jumble, and I'll attempt to clarify with captions.
Never seen a mushroom quite like this. To all with concern: we didn't add this to the dinner menu.
What do you get when you add 2 bicyclists, 1 unicycler, 3 hours of daylight and a forest full of sticks?
Bathroom air freshener
How the Toaster House got it's name.
A sight for sore thighs
....New Mexico view. Somewhere.
One of many flat sessions.
In helping Wanda at Abiquiu B&B with moving heavy slabs...black widow!
Stunning New Mexico view
Old abandoned homestead
"Reliable" Water Source...
One of the many Pie Town attractions: the Stool Bus (sorry about the blurry finger)
BEDS! Toaster House
Gen sets out at dawn.
A little creature that puffed up as we rode past it. Shows its desert spirit.
Dear Dave,
It took awhile to find the right one, but I finally got that picture you wanted.
Mission accomplished!
Riding into Pie Town during New Mexico's unseasonal cold front
COFFEE! Morning at the Toaster House, anxiously awaiting Gen.
Desert Scene.
So pretty and peaceful. Little do you know we were having the worst riding day yet.
Wall Lake, where we had intended on camping. A very beautiful spot on the New Mexico section.
Desert Solitaire.
Another desert scene.
Construction.
On route to Silver City from Lake Roberts.
After Cuba.
These are the remnants of the insides of a long gone volcano.
R&R before the push to Grants.
Old homestead.
Our warm welcome into the Gila National Forest. Maybe we should have turned around?
The Gila.
Old ruins.
Knock Knock.
Who's there?
Bat.
Bat who?
Batter get some coffee before dealing with the creature on your doorknob!
Compliments of Cuba Lodge
Outside Cube Take #2
Love the terrain!
Dear Matthew B.,
Look forward to the steak and beer, per our agreement.
Drive chain explosion, compliments of New Mexico Slop.
Luckily had a spare hangar and quick link!
Black Canyon. Millions of beautiful wild flowers.
View from the Toaster House of our route coming into Pie Town.
A beautiful specimen.
Dear Dave,
Your other life.
Not a house pet!
Morning ride out of Cuba.
A tortilla, nutella, almond nut and caramel, and twizzler burrito. MMMM.
Hats off to anyone who can find water around here!
One of many Continental Divide Trail crossings in New Mexico
LOVE the desert scenes.
One of many spoils provided by Patrick and Eileen.
Looking back on what we rode into Pie Town
Old homestead.
Beautiful Black Canyon. If only we weren't so exhausted to thoroughly enjoy it!
How many goatheads does it take to ruin a bike trip?
Another Wall Lake photo.
WE HATE CLAY!!!!!!! In New Mexico.
Parked at Lake Roberts.
Cactus frame.
Artsy.
Elk retreating to the high ground.
The foreman was a muni rider.
Desert foliage.
The long road to....no more goat heads.
This photo still makes me laugh! Trying to stay awake long enough for my pasta to cook. Truly an image of exhaustion.
Tunes for the weary traveler.
